Mushrooms as Base Details
[Page 2 of 4]
Zap-A-Gap is an excellent super glue used for miniatures and modeling. For particularly small parts, put some Zap-A-Gap on a space piece of plastic and, using tweezers, dip the small part into the glue -- it's a lot more accurate than using the tip of the bottle.Zap-A-Gap Tip: Once you have a piece positioned as you like it, dip your finger into a cup of water. Shake off all but a drop, then place that drop on top of the join. Water will accelerate Zap-a-Gap and make it bond nearly instantly so you don't have to hold the parts while they set. However, it does leave a slight white residue from the quickened reaction, as you can see in the picture. You can scrape this off easily or paint over it.
Next comes an obvious step: the pins are glued into place with Zap-A-Gap is an excellent super glue used for miniatures and modeling. For particularly small parts, put some Zap-A-Gap on a space piece of plastic and, using tweezers, dip the small part into the glue -- it's a lot more accurate than using the tip of the bottle.Zap-A-Gap. I told you this would be dreadfully easy. For an extra nice touch, tilt the pin heads for a more natural angle.
I like to take things a step above and beyond with an optional step that helps secure the pins and prevents fingers from getting a surprising poke on the bottom of the base. Using a candle, carefully let a drop of wax fall onto the bottom of the base where the pins protrude. Don't hold the candle too close -- you're only trying to place a small blob of wax, not melt the plastic base. I not only do this to secure pins and pieces that stick out from the bottom of the base, but to secure a slotta-tab miniature into the base.
As always, follow all safety precautions when using any source of open flame.
Many people prefer to water down their white glue before applying it. I don't do this, as diluted white glue won't hold down the heavier basing materials such as Woodland Scenics ballast as well. When applying white glue (also known as PVA in Europe or Elmer's in America), you'll find you have more control using an old brush. Wash it out afterwards with plenty of hot, soapy water, and it won't wear out -- I've been using the same brush for this for over a year now. Of course, if you forget and let the brush dry, that WILL ruin it.
When it comes to mushrooms and cat-tails, however, it really doesn't matter since they're so small and are actually stuck into the base anyway. You can put on the ground cover first if that's your preference, but let the glue dry completely before drilling into it and be prepared to knock loose some of the material in the process. One advantage to waiting until last is that you can paint the mushroom easily while it's not attached to a base.
Once we have the solid elements and basing materials attached (and completely dry), we prime the whole thing, just as we would with any figure.
Remember: multiple light coats of primer are better than one heavy coat.
Now then, let's paint those mushrooms.
|If you found this tutorial helpful, why not donate to Necrotales to let me know?|